2010 Ford Escape: How to Release Spare Tire?

The Spare tire on rear bumper.To release this spare tire there is a hole.Where you have to insert the tire release tool.Its fitted by bolts.Loosen the bolts and tire is hot.

This hole is bit hidden.
To see the hole raise the rear liftgate and you will see the hole towards the center. It technically is in the bumper, but the liftgate hides the hole when closed.

This details will help to release the spare tire.
Thanks.

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Ford F150: Engine Consuming Lots of Oil?

Heave oil consumption on Ford F150.This all started after replacing Spark plug,which blew out of head.

The engine is consuming lots of oil.

The vehicle is 1999 ford F150 5.4L Engine model.


Only 2 things I have seen in the 5.4L to cause this much oil consumption is a bad pcv causing too much crankcase pressure into the intake system or the piston rings. Pull your pcv valve and see if it or the hose is coated in oil and replace as needed.

If ok, then do an engine compression check and the cylinders with low compression will need rings, which really means doing all of them to equalize pressure in all cylinders.

Also the other possibility as you mentioned that all problem started after taking care of spark plug,which got blown out of head.


It is possible that the repair to the head has the spark plug in too deep and you have a hole in the piston. depending upon the size of the hole, you may not have a noticable loss of power. I would start with removing the plug on the cylinder that blew the plug out and using a boroscope to inspect the piston. If nothing seen, then do a compression test on it.

If this started immediately upon completion of repair to that cylinder plug hole for blow out plug, then this is most likely problem

This details will help.
Thanks.

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Oldsmobile Lifter noise?

Lifters making noise ate engine getting warmed up.

It is common for these to get a sticky lifter, usually it can be cleaned without removing it, there is a product called BG Quick Clean, you add this to the oil and run the engine at 2000 for 10 minutes, if its a sticky lifter, this will cure it, usually within 3 minutes, you will hear the lifter quiet down, then after 10 minutes, shut the engine off and drain the oil and change the filter, and you should be good to go,profession garage mechanics try this first and  and it works great.

But if its still making the noise then,Sounds like a lifter leakdown problem-when was the last oil change -don't recall do an engine flush and see what happens.

As I mentioned earlier a sticky lifter remains noisy and gets worse when you rev up the engine. Also its said that  collapsed lifter is even worse. Piston slap normally disappears once the engine warms up.But in many cases the lifter noise remains.

For more detail definition and understanding read this important details:------



First understand the details about  Hydraulic Lifter Preload:
The definition states
Mechanical cam designs require a running clearance or valve lash.But  hydraulic lifters are just the opposite.
In this system ,When the rocker arm assembly is properly torqued down into position, the pushrod must take up all the clearance and descend into the hydraulic lifter.
And this in turn helps  the pushrod seat to move down by .020 to .060.
The distance that the pushrod seat moves down away from the retaining lock is the Lifter Preload. The hydraulic mechanism requires this precise amount of preload for it to do its job properly.

But if the amount of Hydraulic Lifter Preload is wrong, then this noise issues starts and proper troubleshooting is required.
If clearance exists between the pushrod and the seat in the hydraulic lifter, after the rocker arm assembly has been torqued down, you will have no lifter preload. And this causes he Actual problem And due to this the valve train will be noisy when the engine is running. And due to this  hydraulic force produced by the lifter will be exerted against the lifters retaining lock, and this could cause the lock to fail.So inspecting this parts will help.
This theory will help you to know and understand the problem better.


This will help.
Thanks.

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Subaru Oil pressure Gauge replacing?

How to replace oil pressure gauge.
How does it works and where it is located.

The details with help diagrams to replace oil pressure gauge is as follows:----


The oil pressure gauge switch monitors the oil pressure at the pump. Depending on the model, it is attached to the oil pump case (1.6L, 1.8L and 2.7L engines) or cylinder head (2.2L, 2.5L and 3.3L engines).

This sensor consists of a moving diaphragm which reacts according to the oil pump pressure, a temperature compensating bimetal, a heat wire and two contacts.

When no oil pressure is presents, the two contact points are open slightly. As oil pressure increases, the point arm begins to contact the bimetal. With the ignition switch ON, current flows to the heat wire in the sensor and begins to create heat which bends the bimetal and point arm in the sensor. As the bimetal in the sensor heats and bends, current is created which is transported through the sensor wire to the gauge, where it begins to heat a bimetal in the gauge. The bending bimetal moves the point arm in the gauge. As the oil pressure changes, it creates a different current flow and resulting generated heat to the bimetal in the sensor and gauge.


The oil pressure gauge switchin your case is attached to the back side of the Cylinder Head and looks like this.




The oil pressure switch is attached to the lower part of the Cylinder Block on the back side also, and looks like this.



The procedure to replace oil pressure gauge is as follows:---

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Access the oil pressure sensor on the oil pump case (1.6L, 1.8L and 2.7L engines) or cylinder head (2.2L, 2.5L and 3.3L engines). Unfasten the wire harness from the switch.
3. Place a suitable drain pan underneath the oil pressure sensor to capture any oil which may spill out during the removal and installation of the switch.
4. Use an appropriate wrench to loosen and remove the oil pressure sensor. If reinstalling original oil pressure sensor, remove and discard washer on sensor.

To install:

5. Position the oil pressure sensor and new washer into hole in oil pump case or cylinder head, depending on models, and hand-tighten.
6. Use an appropriate socket and tighten the pressure sensor to 12-17 ft. lbs. (17-23 Nm).
7. Fasten the wire harness to the oil pressure sensor.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. Check the oil level and add if needed.


This details will help.
Thanks.

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1995 Subaru oil sending unit ?

Where is oil sending unit located and how to replace it on 1995 Subaru car model.

The details with proper diagrams are as follows-----

The oil pressure switch is attached to the crankcase (1.2L engine), oil pump case (1.6L, 1.8L and 2.7L engines) or cylinder block (2.2L, 2.5L and 3.3L engines). It monitors oil pressure and activates the oil pressure indicator light in the combination meter.

See the diagram shown below:------




The sensor is made up of a diaphragm which is operated by oil pressure. A set of contacts open and close in relation to the diaphragm movement. The entire sensor is encased in phenol resin which is not effected by temperature or oil. The sensor is not serviceable, and must be replaced if found to be defective.




Before replacing the Oil pressure sensor switch,test the sensor to confirm its faulty.
Te procedure to test is as follows:-----

TESTING

1. Remove the oil pressure switch from the engine.

2. Install a T-fitting into the oil pressure switch hole and connect the oil pressure switch to one end, and a suitable oil pressure gauge to the other.

3. Start the vehicle and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Upon starting the vehicle, the oil pressure light should illuminate. If it does not, check the wiring to the indicator lamp for power.

4. At an oil pressure of 2.1 psi (15 kPa), the oil pressure indicator light should go out. If the light does not go out, replace the oil pressure switch.

One the Oil pressure sensor switch is checked faulty,then replace it.The procedure to remove and install oil pressure sensor switch is as follows:-----

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Access the oil pressure switch on the crankcase (1.2L engine), oil pump case (1.6L, 1.8L and 2.7L engines) or cylinder head (2.2L, 2.5L and 3.3L engines). Unfasten the wire harness from the switch.
3. Place a suitable drain pan underneath the oil pressure switch to capture any oil which may spill out during the removal and installation of the switch.
4. Use an appropriate wrench or socket to loosen and remove the oil pressure switch. If reinstalling original oil pressure switch, remove and discard washer on switch.

To install:

5. Position the oil pressure switch and new washer into hole on crankcase, oil pump case or cylinder head, depending on models, and hand-tighten.
6. Use an appropriate socket and tighten the oil pressure switch to 12-17 ft. lbs. (17-23 Nm).
7. Fasten the wire harness to the oil pressure switch.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. Check the oil level and add oil if needed.

This details will help.

Thanks.

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where is oil sending unit located on 2006 hyundai accent?

Oil  pressure sending unit measures the engine oil pressure and sends this information to the oil pressure gauge.
For 2006 Hyundai Accent  its mounted on the oil filter housing just above the filter.And below the Alternator.
The filter  is located directly under the engine it is in plain view if you look under it.
The oil pressure sensor is on the front of the block on the right side, right above the crank sensor.

See the image shown below,this is how it looks:-----


This will help.
Thanks.

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2003 Nissan/Dustan: Suspension makes Clanking Noise?

Clanking noise head from front suspension at slow speeds and noise quits at high speeds on highway driving.

In such cases there are few basics that needs to be checked.
Check the front Suspension springs are properly sealed and not coming in contact with any metallic part OR bearing.


If all checked ok,then The most common issue is worn/missing sway bar link bushings that allow the link to move and clang against the sway bar or spindle when turning.

If ok, the struts need to be removed to check the upper strut bearing and strut mounts.But most of the time it is the sway bar link bushings.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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