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Friday, August 31, 2012

Chrysler disk read error

2005 Chrysler Town & Country disk won't eject and gives disk read error


Chrysler with Navigation system has intermittent problem and few issues.

The issues like:----
  • The disk will not eject
  • The display shows Disk read Error
  • Also cannot change radio stations or put in a DVD while this is occurring.
Mostly the problem starts only when the DVD is loaded/inserted in the unit.But when DVD disc is not inserted then this same unit works fine.
When the DVD has been ejected, all other systems work fine - the radio, the disc changer, etc.


AS PER THESE DETAILS THE BASIC TROUBLESHOOTING DETAILS ARE AS FOLLOWS:-----

Most likely it seems like an internal radio failure issue. 
This is why because if the problem is with the disc then it shouldn't come with the other problems you are having, a bad disc shouldn't cause you to not be able to change channels, eject, etc.

YOU CAN TRY:---- 
Pop your disc out and see if it looks damaged. Check it over for any physical damage and make sure it's clean and not dirty or dusty.
If the disc looks ok then most likely it is and the failure is in the radio. If you haven't already, try disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes, reconnect it and see if that helps.This procedure resets the complete car system. If not then the radio will need to be replaced or sent out for repair.

RADIO REPAIR OPTIONS:---
Locate the used unit (reliability could be questionable), an exchange remanufactured unit through your dealer, or remove yours and send it to a radio repair facility.
Now-a-days many shops or dealers will have repair places that they routinely use, like United Radio. Sending them out to have them repaired is normally far cheaper than an outright replacement, but actual price depends on what is wrong with it.
So first get the fault detected with the system.This will let you know what the repair cost will me and then you can make your decision further.


This details will help.
Thanks.


Thursday, July 26, 2012

LINCOLN TOWNCAR AIR SUSPENSION LIGHT

TURN CHECK AIR SUSPENSION DASH LIGHT OFF 

Vehicle model 1996 Lincoln Towncar

Hope these procedure helps to turn off the Air suspension light.

First of all access the Airsuspension module.For that you need to remove  glove box . The Air  suspension control module is mounted on the AC/Heater box .
The Module has black connector and a gray connector. 

Now here the actual procedure starts.
If you Unplug the black connector ,that it will turn off the "check air suspension light" but with that it will also disable your power steering tension (variable assist steering) control on the left side of the steering column. 

So to only turn off check air suspension light and not power steering control the trick is to  unplug the black connector and then you need to remove the dark green/light green wire pin from the connector (pin #11) and then reconnect that black connector to the module. That will disable only the check air suspension light. 

Also you can  just identify that black connector to the module and cut the green wire. And be sure to isolate that wire because the "check air suspension light" will come on if it touches ground.

==================

FOR same problem 2001 Lincoln Town Car Air Suspension Light will not go off

To turn the light off and disable the air suspension, you have to disconnect the air suspension module.
The module is located in the luggage compartment, exactly behind the air suspension switch.
To access the Suspension module pull back the wall carpet and remove the 2 nuts that hold the suspension module. Unplug the suspension module and bolt the module back in place.

But disconnecting the module connector will also disable the active steering system. 

As mentioned in the previous section on the older Lincolns you could cut a green wire and that would kill the light. The newer ones like this one have the suspension/steering module communicating over a data bus with the instrument cluster. There has to be some faking the suspension module out to get the light to stay off. The steering/suspension module on this year is located behind the dash. 

=================

FOR 2002 LINCOLN TOWN CAR WITH AIR SUSPENSION LIGHT ON

Is the vehicles ride height high or low on any corner?
Since no such air ride issues are noticed then it may something simple as just a corroded electrical connector or a air ride height sensor thats failing. To know whats wrong you must get a scan tool hooked up and retrieve the stored fault codes. The error code will point out what is causing the Suspension light to remain ON.
The suspension light come on if you either turn the system off or if its a problem in the system. Either way you are fine to go ahead and drive it with he light on as long as it hold ride height till you can get it in for repair.
===================

These details will help.
Thanks.


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Sunday, July 22, 2012

Blue Water Warning Light on Dash?

VEHICLE: Volkswagen Beetle 2000 Year model.

PROBLEM:  Warning light comes up on dash while driving.Its blue light .It shows sign of water.

TROUBLESHOOTING SOLUTION DETAILS:

Its a warning light to indicate you the problem.

The blue water Warning light is for the low coolant level.
The warning light says then coolant level is low in your car then required.Either its leaking or its got low by natural way which happens by time.After few moths the coolant needs to be filled.So first check that the coolant is up to the mark on the translucent tank
If the coolant is LOW,then get the coolant line pressure tested by pressure tool.The tool can be easily available at local auto part stores.If pressure is not leaking then refill the coolant in its reservoir.

But If coolant is properly full and up to its mark  then its possible that the coolant level switch / sensor is faulty or stuck.

For that issue you need to try unplugging the coolant level switch/sensor.
On VW beetle the coolant level switch/sensor is located  on the side of the tank.
Properly check that its connection is bright and clean and that the wire is not damaged/loose or worn out.
If this seems Ok then you can remove the level switch and give it a good clean with fresh water to ensure its de-scaled.
Then reconnect and check.
All should be good.

These details will help.
Thanks.


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Fuel Injection Problem And RPM suddenly increases

Starting Problems on VW.

VEHICLE: Volkswagen Passat 1999 Year model.

Engine: 1.6L.

PROBLEM: The Rpm suddenly increases to 3500 to 4000.
The issue noticed when engine gets warm.Also fuel injection issue.


QUESTION: Why engine runs lean,then runs rough also why there are no error codes stored in ECU or no check engine light.And how to troubleshoot this issue?


TROUBLESHOOTING SOLUTION DETAILS:


There are few basic possibilities that can cause such problem.All needs to be inspected.I will explain the problem and troubleshooting possibilities in details.

The check engine light comes on when problem is electrical.but if the issue is mechanical then many a times no check engine light will come up and no error codes will be stored in ECU.

The issue can be related to air leak after the airflow meter/.
If any air dragged in here then it will not noticed  by the ECU and so not compensated for and this can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.
As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.
I suggest you to inspect and properly check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the hoses for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.
Many local garage mechanics try one simple procedure to locate the leak.I will mention the procedure below.

Its one of the best way to locate a leak.For that start the engine,let it  run and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it.Don't spray on all hoses and vacuum lines together,spray one at a time.If the vacuum line and hose area is difficult to reach then Some mechanics use slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area,.

OTHER THAT THESE,ALSO 
check the wiring and connector to the airflow meter.If there is any signs of corrosion or damage. Then replace it.
Also try these to confirm problem with airflow meter.for that unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

If the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty.

Air leaks problem which is mentioned above are very temperature dependent as gaps can open or close up as things expand with heat, so the weather and engine temperature can effect them.

This leads them to be quite intermittent in the case of mild leaks.
Because the hoses and vacuum lines expands when engine gets warm and contracts when its cold.If the vacuum line or hoses are worn out.Then a slight crack gets created in them.And when engine gets warm the rubber lines expands and the leak issue is noticed.

One more thing you can try is clean the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with electronic parts cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue.

On some cases the problem can be sensors or the issue with wiring to the sensors causing this.
Most possible can be :---

  • Airflow meter
  • Crank position sensor
  • Cam position sensor
  • O2 sensor
  • Throttle position sensor

Check this sensors and its wiring one by one.If its worn out or damaged then it has to be replaced.

Other then this sensors also check the resistance of the spark plug leads ( 13-15Kohm / metre) and replace if any doubt or high resistance.

These are the possibilities that can cause the problem you noticed.
All the parts cannot be faulty at once.But proper inspection and testing will let you make confirmation about which is faulty and so you can continue parts replacement in that direction.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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No Clutch Pedal No pressure

Replace faulty clutch with aftermarket clutch kit.

VEHICLE: 1998 Volkswagen Jetta
PROBLEM: No Clutch PRESSURE.

QUESTION: Why clutch pedal feels loose and no pressure?

TROUBLESHOOTING SOLUTION DETAILS:

If the new clutch kit is properly replaced,then all should work properly.Definitely something is gone wrong.Normally these clutch replacing procedure is not very confusing.Its easy and straight forwards.
But as you mentioned that clutch pedal feels loose and there is no pressure then, most likely cause is clutch release bearing is left off. When you remove the cover and rod, there is a round spacer that also acts as a bearing, when its left off, you will have a loose pedal, and the clutch will not disengage.

See part number 16 shown in the diagram below:---
VW clutch
When you buy the new clutch kit,the bearing comes with the kit.May be you have not removed the old bearing(part number 16) or you have removed the bearing but not installed new bearing.To confirm these you need to look at the linkage.For that You  have to pull the cover off number 13 and take a look at the linkage. I know some aftermarket clutches, the bearing may be a different size that the original.
On some repair at out Auto garage its noticed that if the lever was pulled back, the bearing can drop off the linkage inside the cover . To confirm this the cover can be removed with the transmission in place, it is just pressed in.For that you can use a very flat type wedge and slightly pry around the cover . Also the cable on this car, needs to be compressed back so that you can re-install the cable. This many times can be difficult, it requires pulling and pushing the cable back in, and using a tool to hold the cable compressed. There is a procedure to compress the cable, and this can be a task by itself.
Its not at all a tough task.But all basic repair tools are required.If you feel its out of reach,then get the process completed by profession garage repair tech.
Also get the tranny fluid checked.

You can check the level once the car is on the ground level. Using the speedo gear as a dipstick there should be oil to the bottom part of the shaft.

These details will help.
Thanks.


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DSG automatic transmission problem

VEHICLE: 2009 Volkswagen Golf
Transmission details: DSG automatic transmission
ENGINE: 1.4 TSI petrol.

PROBLEM: Vehicle Suddenly Took OFF While Parking
Why the car suddenly takes off while driving?

TROUBLESHOOTING SOLUTIONS:

First of all i will say that these types of issues are known.Many of our customers come with this types of problem at out repair garage.

Issues are very commonly known and noticed on  DSG gearboxes.
The problems noticed are like, when you go to pull away from stand still there is a delay and then a harsh jerkness forward, more so in slow speed conditions, there is always going to be a small delay from standstill to pull-away .These problems are noticed because of the DSG gear box design.
The DSG gearbox is designed to do this as it selects 2 gears at once, and initially you pull away in 2nd gear , then it drops down to 1st when it sees the wheels rotating.
Also the known problems with either the clutch packs or the Mechatronic control unit, which cause these similar problems that you have experienced.
I suggest you to get these issue checked/inspected by dealer. It is a main dealer issue.
Also when replacing these components as they have to be set up and a basic setting carried out .
The parts are not cheap to replace, the Mechatronic unit on its own is around £1400 just for the part.

There was no actual recall or service bulletin released by VW about these problem.But these same problem is noticed on many VW vehicles with DSG transmission gear box.So they must be very much aware of this issue and can get the correct part replaced.If you have no warranty left and if this is the faulty component, i would ask the main dealer if there is any "Good Will" from Volkswagen regarding this issue, and they may contribute towards the repair, sometimes they will pay for the whole repair.


These details will help.
Thanks.

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Monday, July 16, 2012

Fix For Water On Front Footwell on Renault

Noticed water getting collected/messing up on front foot well.
Is it water draining there or is it leaking.


Getting water in the front foot wells,The water appears through the bottom.

There are many such issues noticed by others too,that water getting on front foot well or noticed water on rear foot well.
The Fix details are as follows:---

FRONT FOOT WELL GETTING WET:--------
Inspect the door.
In one of case at our garage the leak was coming through the door, tracking down the back of the card, and running inside both sets of seals and down into the carpet.

The reason water gets collected and then leak because ,
Its the case of normal door failure, where the door fills with water and overflows into the car; that has enough water to hear it slosh around. The water spills/ falls against the door card, and tracking down and in.

PASSENGER SIDE FOOT WELL GETTING WET:

The issue noticed at our garage the passenger foot well/carpet getting wet on Renault model.
The reason was door deal was replaced by the customer but was not replaced correctly.So inspect door deal on case too.

On one of other case with same problem the windscreen was replaced.But the issue was same as before the fitting was incorrect.
Mostly what happens that the front windscreen rubber remains on top of the door rubber.And that creates the gap where water gets collected and the water spills one over water is collected.

If that is in your case too,then using a small screwdriver,  pull the door seal out so if it is trapped then it gets released from  under the windscreen rubber.

On some cases the issue is dirt,leaves or you can say algae.These gets collected in the drainage net and blocks the water to get drained from its actual way and that causes leak.Inspect the door seals.If they are blocked /filled up by dust/dirt then get them properly cleaned.

THE FIX PROCEDURE IS AS FOLLOWS---


The door cads are stuck up on door.And these cause door to not seal properly.a minute gap gets created.Its actually a sticking strip that gets worn out.It looses its stickiness and needs replacing.
At Renault dealer ship this original strip costs abut $70 to $80.But at local auto parts store these same type of after market mastic stretch door seal reel strip costs for about $10 to $20.

You have to replace these old stick strip.For that remove the door card then scratch the old worn out strip and stick new mastic door seal reel strip to right position.
It will be good if you clean the area before you apply new strip.The thickness should be approx 6mm to 8mm.Not less hat that or more then that.If the strip thickness is lees then same problem will occur,if the thickness is more then door cars will not refit.
Once all clean and dry, unwind the mastic and stretch it a bit till its about 6-8mm thick .
Do not overfill the slot on the door card where the original strip was. If its too thick then you will have problems reattaching the doorcard to the frame evenly and getting the clips to reattach correctly.
once the mastic seal is fitted then fit the door card.You have to press the card very firmly to the frame to ensure a good seal all round the door card.
Once all these is done,then take a mug of water and pout it into the door frame line and see if waer is leaking inside to the foot well or not.
If it leaks from inside then same seal trick has to be done from inside like you did outside.
There should be about enough mastic for 2 door cards.


To inspect the leak remove the door trim.
The leak is mostly noticed through seal door mirror and glass seal.


The water  drips onto the inner part of the door trim.But if you carefully see there is a very smooth curve on door trim and due to this the direction of the water gets diverted to the bottom seal between the trim and the door. The bottom seal of the trim and door coincide with the rubber seal on the bottom of the door frame. 

Many clients think the water is getting to the foot well from under the floor.Yes its possible but not always.On some cases like these the water pass through the door-trim seal to the rubber seal, Due to the curving door trim seal.The rubber seal soaks water and passes water under the door frame plastics to the bottom of the footwell.And footwell gets wet.


To GET these problem fixed.

Carefully see,on the bottom of he door there are two Darin hoes.you have o diver he flow o water towards that drain holes.
To do this Use thick plastic A storage bag or thick garden hose bag is good.Then glue this plastic bag or any other good looking plastic material between the door and door trim.This will make water gets into the drain holes.If the drain is covered by cap,then remove those capo,to make the water enter the drain holes.

This details will help.
Thanks.