LINCOLN TOWNCAR AIR SUSPENSION LIGHT

TURN CHECK AIR SUSPENSION DASH LIGHT OFF 

Vehicle model 1996 Lincoln Towncar

Hope these procedure helps to turn off the Air suspension light.

First of all access the Airsuspension module.For that you need to remove  glove box . The Air  suspension control module is mounted on the AC/Heater box .

The Module has black connector and a gray connector. 

Now here the actual procedure starts.

If you Unplug the black connector ,that it will turn off the "check air suspension light" but with that it will also disable your power steering tension (variable assist steering) control on the left side of the steering column. 

So to only turn off check air suspension light and not power steering control the trick is to  unplug the black connector and then you need to remove the dark green/light green wire pin from the connector (pin #11) and then reconnect that black connector to the module. That will disable only the check air suspension light. 

Also you can  just identify that black connector to the module and cut the green wire. And be sure to isolate that wire because the "check air suspension light" will come on if it touches ground.

==================

FOR same problem 2001 Lincoln Town Car Air Suspension Light will not go off

To turn the light off and disable the air suspension, you have to disconnect the air suspension module.
The module is located in the luggage compartment, exactly behind the air suspension switch.

To access the Suspension module pull back the wall carpet and remove the 2 nuts that hold the suspension module. Unplug the suspension module and bolt the module back in place.

But disconnecting the module connector will also disable the active steering system. 

As mentioned in the previous section on the older Lincolns you could cut a green wire and that would kill the light. The newer ones like this one have the suspension/steering module communicating over a data bus with the instrument cluster. There has to be some faking the suspension module out to get the light to stay off. The steering/suspension module on this year is located behind the dash. 

=================

FOR 2002 LINCOLN TOWN CAR WITH AIR SUSPENSION LIGHT ON

Is the vehicles ride height high or low on any corner?

Since no such air ride issues are noticed then it may something simple as just a corroded electrical connector or a air ride height sensor thats failing. To know whats wrong you must get a scan tool hooked up and retrieve the stored fault codes. The error code will point out what is causing the Suspension light to remain ON.

The suspension light come on if you either turn the system off or if its a problem in the system. Either way you are fine to go ahead and drive it with he light on as long as it hold ride height till you can get it in for repair.

===================

These details will help.
Thanks.

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Blue Water Warning Light on Dash?

VEHICLE: Volkswagen Beetle 2000 Year model.

PROBLEM:  Warning light comes up on dash while driving.Its blue light .It shows sign of water.

TROUBLESHOOTING SOLUTION DETAILS:

Its a warning light to indicate you the problem.

The blue water Warning light is for the low coolant level.
The warning light says then coolant level is low in your car then required.Either its leaking or its got low by natural way which happens by time.After few moths the coolant needs to be filled.So first check that the coolant is up to the mark on the translucent tank
If the coolant is LOW,then get the coolant line pressure tested by pressure tool.The tool can be easily available at local auto part stores.If pressure is not leaking then refill the coolant in its reservoir.

But If coolant is properly full and up to its mark  then its possible that the coolant level switch / sensor is faulty or stuck.

For that issue you need to try unplugging the coolant level switch/sensor.
On VW beetle the coolant level switch/sensor is located  on the side of the tank.
Properly check that its connection is bright and clean and that the wire is not damaged/loose or worn out.
If this seems Ok then you can remove the level switch and give it a good clean with fresh water to ensure its de-scaled.
Then reconnect and check.
All should be good.

These details will help.
Thanks.

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Fuel Injection Problem And RPM suddenly increases

Starting Problems on VW.

VEHICLE: Volkswagen Passat 1999 Year model.

Engine: 1.6L.

PROBLEM: The Rpm suddenly increases to 3500 to 4000.
The issue noticed when engine gets warm.Also fuel injection issue.


QUESTION: Why engine runs lean,then runs rough also why there are no error codes stored in ECU or no check engine light.And how to troubleshoot this issue?


TROUBLESHOOTING SOLUTION DETAILS:


There are few basic possibilities that can cause such problem.All needs to be inspected.I will explain the problem and troubleshooting possibilities in details.

The check engine light comes on when problem is electrical.but if the issue is mechanical then many a times no check engine light will come up and no error codes will be stored in ECU.

The issue can be related to air leak after the airflow meter/.
If any air dragged in here then it will not noticed  by the ECU and so not compensated for and this can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.
As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.
I suggest you to inspect and properly check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the hoses for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.
Many local garage mechanics try one simple procedure to locate the leak.I will mention the procedure below.

Its one of the best way to locate a leak.For that start the engine,let it  run and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it.Don't spray on all hoses and vacuum lines together,spray one at a time.If the vacuum line and hose area is difficult to reach then Some mechanics use slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area,.

OTHER THAT THESE,ALSO 

check the wiring and connector to the airflow meter.If there is any signs of corrosion or damage. Then replace it.

Also try these to confirm problem with airflow meter.for that unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

If the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty.

Air leaks problem which is mentioned above are very temperature dependent as gaps can open or close up as things expand with heat, so the weather and engine temperature can effect them.

This leads them to be quite intermittent in the case of mild leaks.
Because the hoses and vacuum lines expands when engine gets warm and contracts when its cold.If the vacuum line or hoses are worn out.Then a slight crack gets created in them.And when engine gets warm the rubber lines expands and the leak issue is noticed.

One more thing you can try is clean the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with electronic parts cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue.

On some cases the problem can be sensors or the issue with wiring to the sensors causing this.
Most possible can be :---

• Airflow meter
• Crank position sensor
• Cam position sensor
• O2 sensor
• Throttle position sensor

Check this sensors and its wiring one by one.If its worn out or damaged then it has to be replaced.

Other then this sensors also check the resistance of the spark plug leads ( 13-15Kohm / metre) and replace if any doubt or high resistance.

These are the possibilities that can cause the problem you noticed.
All the parts cannot be faulty at once.But proper inspection and testing will let you make confirmation about which is faulty and so you can continue parts replacement in that direction.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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No Clutch Pedal No pressure

Replace faulty clutch with aftermarket clutch kit.

VEHICLE: 1998 Volkswagen Jetta
PROBLEM: No Clutch PRESSURE.

QUESTION: Why clutch pedal feels loose and no pressure?

TROUBLESHOOTING SOLUTION DETAILS:

If the new clutch kit is properly replaced,then all should work properly.Definitely something is gone wrong.Normally these clutch replacing procedure is not very confusing.Its easy and straight forwards.
But as you mentioned that clutch pedal feels loose and there is no pressure then, most likely cause is clutch release bearing is left off. When you remove the cover and rod, there is a round spacer that also acts as a bearing, when its left off, you will have a loose pedal, and the clutch will not disengage.

See part number 16 shown in the diagram below:---

When you buy the new clutch kit,the bearing comes with the kit.May be you have not removed the old bearing(part number 16) or you have removed the bearing but not installed new bearing.To confirm these you need to look at the linkage.For that You  have to pull the cover off number 13 and take a look at the linkage. I know some aftermarket clutches, the bearing may be a different size that the original.
On some repair at out Auto garage its noticed that if the lever was pulled back, the bearing can drop off the linkage inside the cover . To confirm this the cover can be removed with the transmission in place, it is just pressed in.For that you can use a very flat type wedge and slightly pry around the cover . Also the cable on this car, needs to be compressed back so that you can re-install the cable. This many times can be difficult, it requires pulling and pushing the cable back in, and using a tool to hold the cable compressed. There is a procedure to compress the cable, and this can be a task by itself.
Its not at all a tough task.But all basic repair tools are required.If you feel its out of reach,then get the process completed by profession garage repair tech.
Also get the tranny fluid checked.

You can check the level once the car is on the ground level. Using the speedo gear as a dipstick there should be oil to the bottom part of the shaft.

These details will help.
Thanks.

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DSG automatic transmission problem

VEHICLE: 2009 Volkswagen Golf
Transmission details: DSG automatic transmission
ENGINE: 1.4 TSI petrol.

PROBLEM: Vehicle Suddenly Took OFF While Parking

Why the car suddenly takes off while driving?

TROUBLESHOOTING SOLUTIONS:

First of all i will say that these types of issues are known.Many of our customers come with this types of problem at out repair garage.

Issues are very commonly known and noticed on  DSG gearboxes.

The problems noticed are like, when you go to pull away from stand still there is a delay and then a harsh jerkness forward, more so in slow speed conditions, there is always going to be a small delay from standstill to pull-away .These problems are noticed because of the DSG gear box design.

The DSG gearbox is designed to do this as it selects 2 gears at once, and initially you pull away in 2nd gear , then it drops down to 1st when it sees the wheels rotating.

Also the known problems with either the clutch packs or the Mechatronic control unit, which cause these similar problems that you have experienced.

I suggest you to get these issue checked/inspected by dealer. It is a main dealer issue.

Also when replacing these components as they have to be set up and a basic setting carried out .

The parts are not cheap to replace, the Mechatronic unit on its own is around £1400 just for the part.

There was no actual recall or service bulletin released by VW about these problem.But these same problem is noticed on many VW vehicles with DSG transmission gear box.So they must be very much aware of this issue and can get the correct part replaced.If you have no warranty left and if this is the faulty component, i would ask the main dealer if there is any "Good Will" from Volkswagen regarding this issue, and they may contribute towards the repair, sometimes they will pay for the whole repair.

These details will help.

Thanks.

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Fix For Water On Front Footwell on Renault

Noticed water getting collected/messing up on front foot well.
Is it water draining there or is it leaking.


Getting water in the front foot wells,The water appears through the bottom.

There are many such issues noticed by others too,that water getting on front foot well or noticed water on rear foot well.
The Fix details are as follows:---

FRONT FOOT WELL GETTING WET:--------

Inspect the door.

In one of case at our garage the leak was coming through the door, tracking down the back of the card, and running inside both sets of seals and down into the carpet.

The reason water gets collected and then leak because ,

Its the case of normal door failure, where the door fills with water and overflows into the car; that has enough water to hear it slosh around. The water spills/ falls against the door card, and tracking down and in.

PASSENGER SIDE FOOT WELL GETTING WET:

The issue noticed at our garage the passenger foot well/carpet getting wet on Renault model.

The reason was door deal was replaced by the customer but was not replaced correctly.So inspect door deal on case too.

On one of other case with same problem the windscreen was replaced.But the issue was same as before the fitting was incorrect.

Mostly what happens that the front windscreen rubber remains on top of the door rubber.And that creates the gap where water gets collected and the water spills one over water is collected.

If that is in your case too,then using a small screwdriver,  pull the door seal out so if it is trapped then it gets released from  under the windscreen rubber.

On some cases the issue is dirt,leaves or you can say algae.These gets collected in the drainage net and blocks the water to get drained from its actual way and that causes leak.Inspect the door seals.If they are blocked /filled up by dust/dirt then get them properly cleaned.

THE FIX PROCEDURE IS AS FOLLOWS---

The door cads are stuck up on door.And these cause door to not seal properly.a minute gap gets created.Its actually a sticking strip that gets worn out.It looses its stickiness and needs replacing.

At Renault dealer ship this original strip costs abut $70 to $80.But at local auto parts store these same type of after market mastic stretch door seal reel strip costs for about $10 to $20.

You have to replace these old stick strip.For that remove the door card then scratch the old worn out strip and stick new mastic door seal reel strip to right position.

It will be good if you clean the area before you apply new strip.The thickness should be approx 6mm to 8mm.Not less hat that or more then that.If the strip thickness is lees then same problem will occur,if the thickness is more then door cars will not refit.

Once all clean and dry, unwind the mastic and stretch it a bit till its about 6-8mm thick .

Do not overfill the slot on the door card where the original strip was. If its too thick then you will have problems reattaching the doorcard to the frame evenly and getting the clips to reattach correctly.

once the mastic seal is fitted then fit the door card.You have to press the card very firmly to the frame to ensure a good seal all round the door card.

Once all these is done,then take a mug of water and pout it into the door frame line and see if waer is leaking inside to the foot well or not.

If it leaks from inside then same seal trick has to be done from inside like you did outside.

There should be about enough mastic for 2 door cards.

To inspect the leak remove the door trim.

The leak is mostly noticed through seal door mirror and glass seal.

The water  drips onto the inner part of the door trim.But if you carefully see there is a very smooth curve on door trim and due to this the direction of the water gets diverted to the bottom seal between the trim and the door. The bottom seal of the trim and door coincide with the rubber seal on the bottom of the door frame. 

Many clients think the water is getting to the foot well from under the floor.Yes its possible but not always.On some cases like these the water pass through the door-trim seal to the rubber seal, Due to the curving door trim seal.The rubber seal soaks water and passes water under the door frame plastics to the bottom of the footwell.And footwell gets wet.

To GET these problem fixed.

Carefully see,on the bottom of he door there are two Darin hoes.you have o diver he flow o water towards that drain holes.

To do this Use thick plastic A storage bag or thick garden hose bag is good.Then glue this plastic bag or any other good looking plastic material between the door and door trim.This will make water gets into the drain holes.If the drain is covered by cap,then remove those capo,to make the water enter the drain holes.

This details will help.
Thanks.

Electrical Issues on Chrysler

Digital Odometer will not start when car is started & Car turns off Suddenly while driving.

Electrical issues on 1997 Chrysler Cirrus

• ISSUE 1) WHY DIGITAL ODOMETER TAKES TIME TO START?

It will start once the car is driven for few minutes.

• ISSUE 2) WHY CAR SHUTS OFF/QUITS INTERMITTENTLY IN BETWEEN DRIVING?

No driving problems like stalling,surging,jerks,hesitation noticed.

HOW TO START TROUBLESHOOTING THIS PROBLEMS?

First of all see if the check engine light is coming ON dash and remaining ON dash.If its just coming up on dash while you turn on the key to start and goes away,then its not the issue.But if check engine light comes up and remains ON or it keeps flashing then its error code stored in engine computer module.The Module has to be scanned for codes.

HOW TO RETRIEVE ERROR CODES/

The error codes can be retrieved by OBD II scan tool.But there is simple procedure to retrieve error codes manually with out using or need of OBD II scan tool.

OK,HOW TO RETRIEVE ERROR CODES MANUALLY?

The procedure is simple.The details are as follows;

Keep the pen paper ready to note down the codes.The error codes will be displayed on your odometer display.

1. Cycle the ignition key from off to on three times ending with it on( the sequence is off-on-off-on-off-on) and watch for the check engine light to flash codes. 
2. Just do off  TO on ,don't crank the starter.Otherwise it will not show codes.
3. After the last time you turn the key on the engine light will come on and then go out. 
4. After a pause it will come back and start flashing. 
5. It will flash max up to nine times and then pause. 
6. Properly and quickly without mistake count the flashes between the longer pauses, this is a code digit.
7. For example it flashes 3 times then pauses and then again flashes 2 times then error code is 32. 
8. Write down all digits that you see and post them here in order.

OK. Procedure was easy and simple.GOT CODES 12 AND 55?

This both error codes are nothing to worry codes.

Error code 12 means the battery has been disconnected.

And error code  55 means end of test.

OK,THEN WHY I AM GETTING THESE PROBLEMS?

The odometer problem is internal in the instrument cluster, seen lots on these cars. It's often caused by cracked solder joints on the cluster's circuit board. 

To trace the problem remove the cluster, remove the circuit board and go over the solder joints with a magnifying glass and look for any that are cracked. Carefully resoldering cracked joints will normally repair the problem without having to replace the circuit board.But if you are not able to locate the loose soldering,then you will have to get the cluster board repaired.Yes repairing is possible and many professional repair shops deal with cluster board repairing to take care of odometer and speedometer not working issues.Buying a new cluster board will be costly issue and getting it repaired will be good option.It will save good amount of cash.There are some stores which provides some guarantee in repair jobs also.So i suggest first inspect the board yourself and try re-soldering if you locate the bad soldering.But if that's not possible then get the board repaired.

OK,AND WHY CAR SHUTS OFF INTERMITTENTLY?

There are few possible causes that can lead to this problem.

Mostly it sets code and you should receive the error code.But if the manual procedure is not giving you error code then you need to use scan tool.Use this tool will monitor the data while the problem is happening.

It will provide some data to be followed.

But without that tool also you can manually inspect the possible parts that can cause this problem.

Now first see how your vehicle looses power.

Is the vehicle dying abruptly that tells us you are losing spark. A loss of fuel would cause a hesitation and lack of power as it dies. 

But as you mentioned that vehicle suddenly dies while driving and no other driving issue noticed.

Then this clears that fuel pump and low fuel pressure or dirty fuel filter is not the issue.

So your main attention is spark related issue.

That is what causing the problem.

WHAT ARE POSSIBLE CAUSE FOR SPARK LOOSING PROBLEM?

Possible causes of lost spark would be the crank sensor, cam sensor, coil, ASD relay, wiring, and the powertrain control module (PCM). Most would normally set a code but not always.

GIVE MORE DETAIL ABOUT EACH POSSIBILITY,SO I CAN START TROUBLESHOOTING?

Ok,i will explain easy possibly with complete detail.

CRANK SENSOR:

In most of such cases the crank sensor is the culprit.

CRANKSENSOR LOCATION ON CHRYSLER:

The crank sensor goes down into the transmission bellhousing at about the 2:00 position as viewed over the left fender.

CRANKSENSOR OPERATION ON CHRYSLER:

It reads off a tone wheel on the flexplate to tell the PCM where the crank is in it's rotation, and is the main input needed for spark. 

IF CRANK SENSOR STOPS OPERATING THEN,

If the crank sensor signal is lost for a fraction of a second it will cause the engine to die, but could restart immediately. The crank sensor is your most likely cause.

==================

If crank sensor checks ok,then other possibility is  faulty cam sensor

CAM SENSOR LOCATION:

Cam sensor is located inside the distributor.This runs off the rear bank camshaft. The cam sensor is also needed for spark and could be momentarily dropping signal.Same as Crank sensor.

COIL PROBLEM:

Like cam sensor coil is also in the distributor. Normally with a bad coil it wouldn't give symptoms like you are having though. If either the coil or cam sensor were bad the distributor would need to be replaced.New distributor comes with coil and cam sensor included inbuilt as a kit.

FAULTY ASD RELAY:

The ASD relay powers the injectors and coil, if the ASD feed was lost because of a wiring problem or bad relay then it would die, but should set a code. 

But still on some cases the relay will get faulty and no code will be set.So to confirm the issue.Swap ASD relay with another working relay.And see if that helps.

FAULTY PCM( PowerTrain Control Module):

In many cases its seen that PCM turns of  momentarily and isn't storing a code because memory is lost each time. 

TO CONFIRM PCM PROBLEM:

Set error code in  PCM and see if it erases during the event. To set error code in PCM manually.Try this simple procedure.

• Start the engine and unplug any sensor on the engine and turn the engine light on purposely. 
• Plug it back in and then drive the car. 
• After it dies and you get it started again, see if there is still a fault code stored besides the 12 and 55. 
• If there is then know that PCM is operating.

Otherwise you know PCM is faulty and it has to be replaced.

But as per your problem described i think its mostly crank sensor or issue with cam sensor.

These details will help.

Thanks.

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All Power Windows Not Working

2000 Chrysler Concorde Power Windows Not operating

WHERE IS POWER WINDOW FUSE AND RELAY LOCATED?

On Your model,there is no fuse or relay to control the power window.

Windows use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse, which is why you can't find a fuse. The windows are controlled directly by the switches, so you won't find a relay either.
So the problem can be circuit breaker,loose wiring,shorted wiring or its faulty switch.

HOW TO TEST CIRCUIT BREAKER?
You need to test continuity with test light.If it shown continuity then circuit breaker is OK.

BUT WHERE IS CIRCUIT BREAKER  LOCATED?

Use ohm meter to test continuity ,the circuit breaker is in the junction block and make sure it shows continuity. If not then replace it.

OK.BUT WHAT CIRCUIT BREAKER TEST'S OK?

In that case other two possibilities,the wiring's and switch.
Either it's wiring problem or bad master switch.
To confirm the problem.
Open the driver's door and take a look between the door body and you will see a black rubber boot, this is where the wiring runs from the door to the main harness. This wiring flexes/moves each time the door is opened and closed and wires can eventually break.Or a one line crack gets created on the wires.The wires gets bent and cracked when get old. on many such cases its seen.
If a power or ground feed wire to the master switch has broken then it will cause your problem.

FROM WHERE EXACTLY THE WIRE RUNS AND WHICH WIRE TO TEST AND HOW TO TEST THE MASTER SWITCH?


Either remove the door panel and check the switch's powers and grounds, or you could open up the door boot and check for broken wires.All the wires runs from under the door panel.Remove the door panel from inside.Once the panel is removed the wires will be easily seen to inspect.

If you see a broken wire then solder it back together with a little added wire. If you don't see anything broken then give each wire a bit of a tug( a slight pull/or jerk) to make sure there isn't a break in an area that you can't see. If the end of wire comes out in your hand,then you know wire is broken.The tan wire and a solid black wire is the one that that give power to the window switch.The master switch located on driver side door panel.

But if the wiring is intact then check the switch's power and ground. There should be power on the tan wire in pin 1 with the key on and ground on the black wire in pin 10. If these are ok then replace the switch.If no,then there is short somewhere in the wire causing the issue.

As per out auto garage repair experience,it seems that in most of cases the problem is circuit breaker or its issue with faulty master switch,this cause all power windows to stop operating at same time.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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Jet Ski Not Starting?

Older Model Bombardier Seadoo Jetski will not start.
It feels like it will start but actually not getting started.

WHAT CAN CAUSE THIS?

There are many basic possibilities that can cause this.
If its sitting for long time before getting started then may be internal electric parts are got dirty and needs to be inspected and serviced if required.

First of all check the fuel in the system.If its low on gas then get it refilled and see if that is helping.

Other possibility is low battery charge.Get the battery tested and inspected.If volt is low then recharge the battery.If the battery terminals are dirty,then disconnect battery wires and clean them with contact cleaner,also clean the area where battery terminals are fitted and then see if that is helping.

BATTERY IS RECHARGED AND FUEL IS FULL?

If still the same problem is noticed then start with the basics, remove the plugs and inspect them, if they are black and sooty then its problem.The plugs will need to be replaced, 2 stroke engine require frequent plug replacement. If they look good inspect them for spark.
To check for spark, remove the plug and reconnect the wire to it, lay it on the cylinder head and look for a bright blue spark. It sounds to me like you likely only have a set of fouled plugs.
If spark is less and low then replace the plugs.First try cleaning the plugs and see if that makes any difference.If not then plugs are faulty and needs replacing.

ANY OTHER POSSIBILITY IF SPARK PLUGS CHECKED OK?

Yes,if plugs checked ok then It is possible that debris have come loose from the inside of the fuel tank and have now plugged up the carbs, at that point the carbs will need to come off and be serviced. To service the carbs the carbs needs to be completely disassembled and cleaned.
If you are not able to do this servicing,then get the carbs serviced at proper garage shop by professional mechanic.

This details will help.
Thank.

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Jetski Sputters and Low RPM?

2002 Honda ARX1200 Aquatrax Jet Ski Sputters and Gives Low RPM

It Starts and runs fine,but in minutes it will sputter and needs to be stopped.

WHAT IS THE CAUSE OF THIS PROBLEM?

One common problem noticed on this model Honda jet-ski is dirty connectors.
In the front of the engine under where the seat clips you will find 2 large multi wire plugs, inspect both of these plugs for corrosion and make sure when the connectors are plugged in that the wires do in fact insert into the other connector and are not pushed out the back of the plug. Those connectors are a common problem with that ski.In most of such cases the connectors are the issue.Disconnecting the wires from this connectors,cleaning the wire terminals and connectors with proper contact cleaner,then reinserting the wires properly to there respective connectors helps/

IF THAT IS NOT THE CASE THEN?

Then in most of such cases you get FI/light buzzer warning indication.
This indicates that there error codes stored in the system.
You will have to retrieve the error codes.Those error codes will tell you whats the issue is.

To retrieve error codes manually try this simple procedure ,jump the service check connector to get the stored codes.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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Where Is AC Low Pressure Port Located On Saturn 2006?

2005 & 2006 Saturn Vue Location of Low Ac Port

Solve A/C problems

MY A/C IS LOW ON CHARGE?

Then it has to be recharged.The A/c has to be charged by refrigerant from Low A/c pressure port.

There are two pressure ports.One is high and other is low.

Many gets confused while getting the system charged.

THERE ARE TWO PORTS I CAN SEE.WHICH IS LOW A/C PORT?

You will see the cap on the service port near the right end of the larger line. This is the line from the firewall to the compressor and is the larger of the two lines. Unscrew the black cap and the Low port will be accessible

OK,JUST TO CONFIRM WHERE IS HIGH PORT?

The high side  A/c pressure port is located by the strut tower on the drivers side.

AND WHERE IS LOW PORT?

I already mentioned it before.But still again i will clarify.

The low side A/c pressure port is located on the fat tube leading from the compressor to the firewall on the passenger side.Low Port is near the pass side strut tower and high port is by the Strut tower.

STILL ITS CONFUSING.DO YOU HAVE ANY DIAGRAM?

Yes sure.

See the diagram shown below.

Carefully look the know type part between number 3 and 1.That is Low pressure port.

This details will help.

Thanks.

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Cooling Fan Stays ON with Ignition Off?

Engine Cooling fan will not turn off,the fan runs non-stop.Ignition is turned to OFF and car is cooled completely,but still fan will not turn off.

The Problem noticed on 2002 Plymouth Voyager.

IS IT A STRANGE PROBLEM?

NO,Not at all.Its common problem noticed many a times.

OK,WHAT ARE THE POSSIBILITIES THAT CAN CAUSE THIS PROBLEM?

It can be faulty cooling fan relay,or problem with Power Control Module(PCM),Or there is short in wires running from PCM to fan relay.

• The relay's control wire can be shorting to ground somewhere between the power train control module and the relay. This isn't that likely but definitely something that can happen.
• It can be the power train control module itself, but again that's not as likely. Usually if the module causes a problem with the fan relay it just doesn't turn on the relay at all.But still don't ignore this possibility too.

This possible parts needs to be inspected.

WHERE IS THE COOLING FAN RELAY LOCATED?

The relay is a solid state design that gets hot in operation, so it's mounted to the inner frame rail in the left side just under the air filter box. When these relays fail they will often cause the fan to run when they should be off.

CAN I TEST THE PARTS TO CONFIRM THE FAULT?

YES sure,you can test the parts.

To rule out the wiring and module, simply check for a short to ground on the light blue/dark blue wire at the relay while it's acting up. If it's not grounded then the relay has failed.

So replacing the relay will help.

One more thing you can do is disconnect the relay wire from fan and see if it still running.If yes then problem is in wiring,its getting short.But if wiring and relay both checked out ok,then its faulty PCM and it has to be replaced.

This details will help.

Thanks.

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Dodge Anti slip System is not operating?

The Limited Slip system function is not operating. Both wheels are rotating in different direction.
The problem is noticed on 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 HD Cummins.

The vehicle has limited slip feature on it.The function is not operating correctly.

What can cause this Problem?
In most of cases this is due to low fluid level.The first thing to start with is changing the fluid. There is a specially formulated friction modifier in the fluid that this limited slip system needs to work correctly. This additive breaks down over time, and is one of the main reasons that the fluid calls for replacement at 15,000 mile intervals.

WHAT IS CORRECT FLUID TO BE USED?
Dont just add new fluid.I would recommend starting by draining the fluid and replacing it with the correct DR HD 2500/3500 75w90 fluid, give it a few days worth of driving and see what it does. Your broken down fluid is contributing to the problem at least to a degree.

BUT IF SAME PROBLEM CONTINUES EVEN AFTER REPLACING FLUID THEN?


Most probably it will solve.But even after changing the fluid if limited slip operation doesn't come back then damage has been done to the clutches in the carrier and the carrier will need to be replaced if you wanted to restore limited slip operation.

IS IT EASY JOB TO BE DONE?
NO, i suggest getting it done by professional.Also buy branded parts,instead of cheap aftermarket parts.The cost is less but they don't give accurate performance and don't last long.

This will help.
Thanks.

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