Saturday, October 13, 2012

CAR A/c clutch will not remain engaged

A/C clutch getting disengaged.

When the Air conditioner is turned on in the ford vehicle the clutch gets engaged,but in few secs the clutch gets disengaged and compressor turn off.

In such cases ,may be on any brand vehicle.

First measure the AC high and AC low pressure when the A/c is running.

As its said that A/C turns off in few secs.So the Ac low and high pressure needs to be tested quickly in few successions when the A/c is running.

It can be tested with AC pressure testing tool.

The pressure tells whether AC is low on charge or its faulty component issue or problem with clutch controlling relay.

On normal basis running pressure on a fully charged A/C system at idle needs to be right 35 to 40 PSI low side and 200 to 225 PSI on the high side.If the A/c pressure is  anything less that these pressure ,then the system will cause the low pressure cycling switch to turn the AC compressor off.

 If the pressure testing shows that both low and high pressure is ok. Then its either a bad AC clutch relay or the AC clutch is heating up and breaking down and kicking off.

To confirm these problem you need a voltmeter.With the help of  volt meter check at the clutch and see if you have battery voltage when the clutch kicks off, if so and no clutch action means the clutch field coil is bad and needs replaced . If no power is found then suspect a bad clutch relay.

So as per these test,you know what part is faulty and you can get the faulty part replaced.

Users Who Viewed This Problem Also Viewed:

Ford Dual AC no cooling on Right side

Car AC Blows Warm Air ?


How to test AUTO AC pressure?

AUTO Air Conditioning Troubleshooting?


Fixing refrigerant leak?

How to locate Car AC Refrigerant leak?


What causes INTERMITTENT COOLING on Car AC system?

Car AC making Noise?


How to Recharge Car's Air Conditioner

For details regarding:--

How does Vehicles Engine cooling system works?

Engine cooling components working?

How to flush cars radiator?

Car Ac not blowing cold, worked for few hours after Refrigerant charging?

Rear AC is not getting cold on GMC Safari?

Heater and fan works, but AC will not blow cold Air?

Car AC clutch fan will not remain Engaged?

Location of Front air conditioning drain line on Chevrolet Tahoe?



Location of AC Low pressure port on Chevy Tahoe?

Passenger side AC leaks water?

Water leaks under dash on passenger side?

Car stalls when AC is turned ON?

Car AC compressor will not start?

Engine cooling fans running, but AC compressor will not run?

Which Fuse controls A/C system on 2003 Ford Taurus?

Car AC Not Blowing Cold Enough?

Car A/C leaking water on floor?

Car AC compressor Clutch disengages after few minutes and car bogs down when clutch is engaged?

Car AC blowing hot?


Where to fill Car AC Freon?

Manual Transmission Clutch System Failures?

How to Charge the AC System on Honda Odyssey?

How to Discharge the AC System on Honda Odyssey?

Removal of Recirculation Door?

How much anti freeze to fill?

overdrive light come on and off

The problem noticed on 2001 Ford Explorer.

The overdrive lights goes on and off on dash board.

This case is related to transmission or with gear issue.

Sometimes its just a basic warning to get the vehicle fluid level checked.

But the best possible way to get the problem confirmed is get the transmission module scanned.This will tell what problem is there.In scanning the error codes are retrieved and as per that further troubleshooting is done.

On these particular case the problem was related to faulty 2nd and 5th gear and replacing the gears solved the issue and overdrive light is gone out.
Also the present condition of transmission is not very good.So its advisable to get the transmission rebuilt by proper transmission professionals.

But the ford was running fine with same transmission,so customer was not interested in replacing the complete transmission.

These details will help.

Users Who Viewed This Problem Also Viewed:

Overdrive light in the dash blinks?

OD light flashing and transmission fluid leaking?

Vehicle runs lean causes misfire

There is lots of thumping noise and vehicle idles rough.

On such cases the diagnostic codes received are P1151 and P1131.

Also the misfire Error codes will be  received.

P1151 and P1131 codes are for the O2 sensors are for lean concerns which indicate there is to much oxygen left over in the exhaust or not enough left over fuel. Normally this is the result of a vacuum leak after the MAF sensor. So the lean concern can be causing your misfire codes 0300 and 0316.

Try these test procedures:---
Run the engine cold. Spray short busts of starting fluid around all the vacuum and PCV hoses and the intake gaskets. When a leak is hit, the rpms will increase.

Also on some cases you will hear noise from intake
If you have a noise in the intake, there is a good chance it is cracked as well as leaking.

So inspect the intake manifold too.

Also on such cases the fuel pressure is important.So inspect the fuse pressure.If its very low or very high,then fuel system, parts needs to be inspected and replaced if checked weak.

The fuel system consists of fuel pressure regular,fuel pump,fuel filter and fuel itself.

If the fuel in the vehicle gets dirty,or thick,then it can cause such problems.Getting the dirty fuel replaced with good fuel helps.


Users Who Viewed This Problem Also Viewed:

Fuel Running Lean

2006 Ford F150: Rough Idle and Vibration?

Ford F-Series Rough Idle/Vibration?

1995 Toyota Corolla: Stalls, Sputters and Pops Through Intake Manifold?

1994 Lexus ES300: Engine Idles Rough and Dies?

Rear End Grinding Noise While Accelrating

The rear end grinding noise issue.

At our auto repair garage we have deal with lots of vehicle with such such issues.

One more with same problem,this time it was 2005 Ford explorer.

The vehicle made grinding noise while accelerating only.Then the noise will not continue further.But these noise will always occur while start up.

So as per these types of problem already seen and noticed at our garage.

There are two possibilities,either its a issue with bearings getting worn out or the major issue is with transmission going out and needs a rebuilt by proper professional.

The 2005 ford explorers has a lot of rear end concerns, and it sounds like to me that it is a bearing going out in the rear end.
Inspect the bearing visually to confirm the problem.try cleaning the dirt collected on side of bearing first and view its actual condition,If it looks out of alignment and worn out,then it has to be replaced/.

But if the vehicle is making winding noise while going to drive mode and if the vehicle shakes a bit while start up,then it points out towards the faulty transmission.

So inspect the condition of your vehicle,as per what conditions are there,you can further go in that way,to resolve the problem.

These details will help.

2001 Toyota Celica: Grinding noise when Clutch pedal is Pushed?

Grinding and Clunking noise?

Squeak and grinding sound is heard when brakes are applied?

Toyota Corolla Brakes make Grinding noise?

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

2000 Ford Ranger Fuel pump relay and Fuse Location

Ford Ranger fuel pump relay and fuse.

The details below will help you:------

Fuel Pump relay switch is in the main box.It is usually located on the drivers side Fender in a black box. As per the details mentioned in Ford vehicle owner's manual ,the fuel pump switch is located in the power distribution box in the engine
compartment .Its recommended to disconnect your battery before removing any other electrical part.

Also Relay # 5 is the fuel pump relay , and in the power distribution (PD) BOX is a 20 amp mini-fuse
for the fuel pump relay + RAP module in location # 9

The fuel pump inertia switch is located in the right front passenger area ,
by the right front kick panel .Sometimes this gets kicked by passenger or if the car is bummed hard it could set this item to shut down fuel system.
The inertia switch is a simple push button switch.If the switch button is got pushed off,then press it once to turn ON.

Users Who Viewed This Problem Also Viewed:

Jaguar Fuel Pump

Jaguar XJ6 fuel pump replaced but still the problem?

Fuel pump relay and cooling fan relay troubleshooting on 1997 ford thunderbird?

How to test Fuel Pressure and replace Fuel Pump on Acura Car models?

How to Relieve Fuel System Pressure on Acura Car Models?

No power to the control side of the fuel pump relay?

How to Replace a Fuel Pump?





How to change fuel injector on 2005 gmc envoy?

Time to replace Fuel pump on 1998 Ford Explorer?

Emergency fuel shut switch on Ford car?

How to jump fuel pump On Chevrolet Silverado 1500?

Friday, August 31, 2012

Chrysler disk read error

2005 Chrysler Town & Country disk won't eject and gives disk read error

Chrysler with Navigation system has intermittent problem and few issues.

The issues like:----
  • The disk will not eject
  • The display shows Disk read Error
  • Also cannot change radio stations or put in a DVD while this is occurring.
Mostly the problem starts only when the DVD is loaded/inserted in the unit.But when DVD disc is not inserted then this same unit works fine.
When the DVD has been ejected, all other systems work fine - the radio, the disc changer, etc.


Most likely it seems like an internal radio failure issue. 
This is why because if the problem is with the disc then it shouldn't come with the other problems you are having, a bad disc shouldn't cause you to not be able to change channels, eject, etc.

Pop your disc out and see if it looks damaged. Check it over for any physical damage and make sure it's clean and not dirty or dusty.
If the disc looks ok then most likely it is and the failure is in the radio. If you haven't already, try disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes, reconnect it and see if that helps.This procedure resets the complete car system. If not then the radio will need to be replaced or sent out for repair.

Locate the used unit (reliability could be questionable), an exchange remanufactured unit through your dealer, or remove yours and send it to a radio repair facility.
Now-a-days many shops or dealers will have repair places that they routinely use, like United Radio. Sending them out to have them repaired is normally far cheaper than an outright replacement, but actual price depends on what is wrong with it.
So first get the fault detected with the system.This will let you know what the repair cost will me and then you can make your decision further.

This details will help.

Thursday, July 26, 2012



Vehicle model 1996 Lincoln Towncar

Hope these procedure helps to turn off the Air suspension light.

First of all access the Airsuspension module.For that you need to remove  glove box . The Air  suspension control module is mounted on the AC/Heater box .
The Module has black connector and a gray connector. 

Now here the actual procedure starts.
If you Unplug the black connector ,that it will turn off the "check air suspension light" but with that it will also disable your power steering tension (variable assist steering) control on the left side of the steering column. 

So to only turn off check air suspension light and not power steering control the trick is to  unplug the black connector and then you need to remove the dark green/light green wire pin from the connector (pin #11) and then reconnect that black connector to the module. That will disable only the check air suspension light. 

Also you can  just identify that black connector to the module and cut the green wire. And be sure to isolate that wire because the "check air suspension light" will come on if it touches ground.


FOR same problem 2001 Lincoln Town Car Air Suspension Light will not go off

To turn the light off and disable the air suspension, you have to disconnect the air suspension module.
The module is located in the luggage compartment, exactly behind the air suspension switch.
To access the Suspension module pull back the wall carpet and remove the 2 nuts that hold the suspension module. Unplug the suspension module and bolt the module back in place.

But disconnecting the module connector will also disable the active steering system. 

As mentioned in the previous section on the older Lincolns you could cut a green wire and that would kill the light. The newer ones like this one have the suspension/steering module communicating over a data bus with the instrument cluster. There has to be some faking the suspension module out to get the light to stay off. The steering/suspension module on this year is located behind the dash. 



Is the vehicles ride height high or low on any corner?
Since no such air ride issues are noticed then it may something simple as just a corroded electrical connector or a air ride height sensor thats failing. To know whats wrong you must get a scan tool hooked up and retrieve the stored fault codes. The error code will point out what is causing the Suspension light to remain ON.
The suspension light come on if you either turn the system off or if its a problem in the system. Either way you are fine to go ahead and drive it with he light on as long as it hold ride height till you can get it in for repair.

These details will help.

Users Who Viewed This Problem Also Viewed:

2005 Lexus RX300: Rear Suspension Makes Noise while Driving Over Hump?

Front Suspension diagrams?

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Blue Water Warning Light on Dash?

VEHICLE: Volkswagen Beetle 2000 Year model.

PROBLEM:  Warning light comes up on dash while driving.Its blue light .It shows sign of water.


Its a warning light to indicate you the problem.

The blue water Warning light is for the low coolant level.
The warning light says then coolant level is low in your car then required.Either its leaking or its got low by natural way which happens by time.After few moths the coolant needs to be filled.So first check that the coolant is up to the mark on the translucent tank
If the coolant is LOW,then get the coolant line pressure tested by pressure tool.The tool can be easily available at local auto part stores.If pressure is not leaking then refill the coolant in its reservoir.

But If coolant is properly full and up to its mark  then its possible that the coolant level switch / sensor is faulty or stuck.

For that issue you need to try unplugging the coolant level switch/sensor.
On VW beetle the coolant level switch/sensor is located  on the side of the tank.
Properly check that its connection is bright and clean and that the wire is not damaged/loose or worn out.
If this seems Ok then you can remove the level switch and give it a good clean with fresh water to ensure its de-scaled.
Then reconnect and check.
All should be good.

These details will help.

Users Who Viewed This Problem Also Viewed:

Coolant Level Sensor on Audi A4?

1989 Ford Taurus: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Testing?


MAF, IAT, MAP and Coolant Level Sensor problem all together on Mazda MPV?

Fuel Injection Problem And RPM suddenly increases

Starting Problems on VW.

VEHICLE: Volkswagen Passat 1999 Year model.

Engine: 1.6L.

PROBLEM: The Rpm suddenly increases to 3500 to 4000.
The issue noticed when engine gets warm.Also fuel injection issue.

QUESTION: Why engine runs lean,then runs rough also why there are no error codes stored in ECU or no check engine light.And how to troubleshoot this issue?


There are few basic possibilities that can cause such problem.All needs to be inspected.I will explain the problem and troubleshooting possibilities in details.

The check engine light comes on when problem is electrical.but if the issue is mechanical then many a times no check engine light will come up and no error codes will be stored in ECU.

The issue can be related to air leak after the airflow meter/.
If any air dragged in here then it will not noticed  by the ECU and so not compensated for and this can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.
As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.
I suggest you to inspect and properly check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the hoses for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.
Many local garage mechanics try one simple procedure to locate the leak.I will mention the procedure below.

Its one of the best way to locate a leak.For that start the engine,let it  run and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it.Don't spray on all hoses and vacuum lines together,spray one at a time.If the vacuum line and hose area is difficult to reach then Some mechanics use slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area,.

check the wiring and connector to the airflow meter.If there is any signs of corrosion or damage. Then replace it.
Also try these to confirm problem with airflow meter.for that unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

If the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty.

Air leaks problem which is mentioned above are very temperature dependent as gaps can open or close up as things expand with heat, so the weather and engine temperature can effect them.

This leads them to be quite intermittent in the case of mild leaks.
Because the hoses and vacuum lines expands when engine gets warm and contracts when its cold.If the vacuum line or hoses are worn out.Then a slight crack gets created in them.And when engine gets warm the rubber lines expands and the leak issue is noticed.

One more thing you can try is clean the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with electronic parts cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue.

On some cases the problem can be sensors or the issue with wiring to the sensors causing this.
Most possible can be :---

  • Airflow meter
  • Crank position sensor
  • Cam position sensor
  • O2 sensor
  • Throttle position sensor

Check this sensors and its wiring one by one.If its worn out or damaged then it has to be replaced.

Other then this sensors also check the resistance of the spark plug leads ( 13-15Kohm / metre) and replace if any doubt or high resistance.

These are the possibilities that can cause the problem you noticed.
All the parts cannot be faulty at once.But proper inspection and testing will let you make confirmation about which is faulty and so you can continue parts replacement in that direction.

This details will help.

Users Who Viewed This Problem Also Viewed:

2005 Toyota Highlander: Engine runs hard RPM below 3000?

1987 Toyota Camry: RPM Drops going Up hills?

Cruise Control stops working, Excessive cranks to start the engine and RPM goes max 2500

1990 Toyota 4Runner: Engine cuts off when reaches 2000 RPM?                                    

1999 Toyota Camry: Erratic stalling and high engine RPM at idle?                                       

1995 Toyota LS: Misfire at idle or low RPM

No Clutch Pedal No pressure

Replace faulty clutch with aftermarket clutch kit.

VEHICLE: 1998 Volkswagen Jetta

QUESTION: Why clutch pedal feels loose and no pressure?


If the new clutch kit is properly replaced,then all should work properly.Definitely something is gone wrong.Normally these clutch replacing procedure is not very confusing.Its easy and straight forwards.
But as you mentioned that clutch pedal feels loose and there is no pressure then, most likely cause is clutch release bearing is left off. When you remove the cover and rod, there is a round spacer that also acts as a bearing, when its left off, you will have a loose pedal, and the clutch will not disengage.

See part number 16 shown in the diagram below:---
VW clutch
When you buy the new clutch kit,the bearing comes with the kit.May be you have not removed the old bearing(part number 16) or you have removed the bearing but not installed new bearing.To confirm these you need to look at the linkage.For that You  have to pull the cover off number 13 and take a look at the linkage. I know some aftermarket clutches, the bearing may be a different size that the original.
On some repair at out Auto garage its noticed that if the lever was pulled back, the bearing can drop off the linkage inside the cover . To confirm this the cover can be removed with the transmission in place, it is just pressed in.For that you can use a very flat type wedge and slightly pry around the cover . Also the cable on this car, needs to be compressed back so that you can re-install the cable. This many times can be difficult, it requires pulling and pushing the cable back in, and using a tool to hold the cable compressed. There is a procedure to compress the cable, and this can be a task by itself.
Its not at all a tough task.But all basic repair tools are required.If you feel its out of reach,then get the process completed by profession garage repair tech.
Also get the tranny fluid checked.

You can check the level once the car is on the ground level. Using the speedo gear as a dipstick there should be oil to the bottom part of the shaft.

These details will help.

Manual Transmission Clutch System Failures?


Automatic transmission will not go into high gear?


Transmission fluid gets into radiator?

Car makes noise when clutch is pressed gently?

How does Clutch works in car?

Clutch pedal hard?

2001 Toyota Celica: Grinding noise when Clutch pedal is Pushed?

DSG automatic transmission problem

VEHICLE: 2009 Volkswagen Golf
Transmission details: DSG automatic transmission
ENGINE: 1.4 TSI petrol.

PROBLEM: Vehicle Suddenly Took OFF While Parking
Why the car suddenly takes off while driving?


First of all i will say that these types of issues are known.Many of our customers come with this types of problem at out repair garage.

Issues are very commonly known and noticed on  DSG gearboxes.
The problems noticed are like, when you go to pull away from stand still there is a delay and then a harsh jerkness forward, more so in slow speed conditions, there is always going to be a small delay from standstill to pull-away .These problems are noticed because of the DSG gear box design.
The DSG gearbox is designed to do this as it selects 2 gears at once, and initially you pull away in 2nd gear , then it drops down to 1st when it sees the wheels rotating.
Also the known problems with either the clutch packs or the Mechatronic control unit, which cause these similar problems that you have experienced.
I suggest you to get these issue checked/inspected by dealer. It is a main dealer issue.
Also when replacing these components as they have to be set up and a basic setting carried out .
The parts are not cheap to replace, the Mechatronic unit on its own is around £1400 just for the part.

There was no actual recall or service bulletin released by VW about these problem.But these same problem is noticed on many VW vehicles with DSG transmission gear box.So they must be very much aware of this issue and can get the correct part replaced.If you have no warranty left and if this is the faulty component, i would ask the main dealer if there is any "Good Will" from Volkswagen regarding this issue, and they may contribute towards the repair, sometimes they will pay for the whole repair.

These details will help.

Users Who Viewed This Problem Also Viewed:

Car freeze overnight and started overheating while driving?

Car engine Overheats and transmission starts slipping?

Brake warning light comes on and car will not start intermittently?

When the car stops, abs pump turns ON?

Headlights flickering and car hesitates to start?

1998 Chrysler Voyager: Transmission Problem?

Monday, July 16, 2012

Fix For Water On Front Footwell on Renault

Noticed water getting collected/messing up on front foot well.
Is it water draining there or is it leaking.

Getting water in the front foot wells,The water appears through the bottom.

There are many such issues noticed by others too,that water getting on front foot well or noticed water on rear foot well.
The Fix details are as follows:---

Inspect the door.
In one of case at our garage the leak was coming through the door, tracking down the back of the card, and running inside both sets of seals and down into the carpet.

The reason water gets collected and then leak because ,
Its the case of normal door failure, where the door fills with water and overflows into the car; that has enough water to hear it slosh around. The water spills/ falls against the door card, and tracking down and in.


The issue noticed at our garage the passenger foot well/carpet getting wet on Renault model.
The reason was door deal was replaced by the customer but was not replaced correctly.So inspect door deal on case too.

On one of other case with same problem the windscreen was replaced.But the issue was same as before the fitting was incorrect.
Mostly what happens that the front windscreen rubber remains on top of the door rubber.And that creates the gap where water gets collected and the water spills one over water is collected.

If that is in your case too,then using a small screwdriver,  pull the door seal out so if it is trapped then it gets released from  under the windscreen rubber.

On some cases the issue is dirt,leaves or you can say algae.These gets collected in the drainage net and blocks the water to get drained from its actual way and that causes leak.Inspect the door seals.If they are blocked /filled up by dust/dirt then get them properly cleaned.


The door cads are stuck up on door.And these cause door to not seal properly.a minute gap gets created.Its actually a sticking strip that gets worn out.It looses its stickiness and needs replacing.
At Renault dealer ship this original strip costs abut $70 to $80.But at local auto parts store these same type of after market mastic stretch door seal reel strip costs for about $10 to $20.

You have to replace these old stick strip.For that remove the door card then scratch the old worn out strip and stick new mastic door seal reel strip to right position.
It will be good if you clean the area before you apply new strip.The thickness should be approx 6mm to 8mm.Not less hat that or more then that.If the strip thickness is lees then same problem will occur,if the thickness is more then door cars will not refit.
Once all clean and dry, unwind the mastic and stretch it a bit till its about 6-8mm thick .
Do not overfill the slot on the door card where the original strip was. If its too thick then you will have problems reattaching the doorcard to the frame evenly and getting the clips to reattach correctly.
once the mastic seal is fitted then fit the door card.You have to press the card very firmly to the frame to ensure a good seal all round the door card.
Once all these is done,then take a mug of water and pout it into the door frame line and see if waer is leaking inside to the foot well or not.
If it leaks from inside then same seal trick has to be done from inside like you did outside.
There should be about enough mastic for 2 door cards.

To inspect the leak remove the door trim.
The leak is mostly noticed through seal door mirror and glass seal.

The water  drips onto the inner part of the door trim.But if you carefully see there is a very smooth curve on door trim and due to this the direction of the water gets diverted to the bottom seal between the trim and the door. The bottom seal of the trim and door coincide with the rubber seal on the bottom of the door frame. 

Many clients think the water is getting to the foot well from under the floor.Yes its possible but not always.On some cases like these the water pass through the door-trim seal to the rubber seal, Due to the curving door trim seal.The rubber seal soaks water and passes water under the door frame plastics to the bottom of the footwell.And footwell gets wet.

To GET these problem fixed.

Carefully see,on the bottom of he door there are two Darin have o diver he flow o water towards that drain holes.
To do this Use thick plastic A storage bag or thick garden hose bag is good.Then glue this plastic bag or any other good looking plastic material between the door and door trim.This will make water gets into the drain holes.If the drain is covered by cap,then remove those capo,to make the water enter the drain holes.

This details will help.

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Electrical Issues on Chrysler

Digital Odometer will not start when car is started & Car turns off Suddenly while driving.

Electrical issues on 1997 Chrysler Cirrus

It will start once the car is driven for few minutes.

No driving problems like stalling,surging,jerks,hesitation noticed.


First of all see if the check engine light is coming ON dash and remaining ON dash.If its just coming up on dash while you turn on the key to start and goes away,then its not the issue.But if check engine light comes up and remains ON or it keeps flashing then its error code stored in engine computer module.The Module has to be scanned for codes.


The error codes can be retrieved by OBD II scan tool.But there is simple procedure to retrieve error codes manually with out using or need of OBD II scan tool.


The procedure is simple.The details are as follows;
Keep the pen paper ready to note down the codes.The error codes will be displayed on your odometer display.
  1. Cycle the ignition key from off to on three times ending with it on( the sequence is off-on-off-on-off-on) and watch for the check engine light to flash codes. 
  2. Just do off  TO on ,don't crank the starter.Otherwise it will not show codes.
  3. After the last time you turn the key on the engine light will come on and then go out. 
  4. After a pause it will come back and start flashing. 
  5. It will flash max up to nine times and then pause. 
  6. Properly and quickly without mistake count the flashes between the longer pauses, this is a code digit.
  7. For example it flashes 3 times then pauses and then again flashes 2 times then error code is 32. 
  8. Write down all digits that you see and post them here in order.

OK. Procedure was easy and simple.GOT CODES 12 AND 55?

This both error codes are nothing to worry codes.
Error code 12 means the battery has been disconnected.
And error code  55 means end of test.


The odometer problem is internal in the instrument cluster, seen lots on these cars. It's often caused by cracked solder joints on the cluster's circuit board. 
To trace the problem remove the cluster, remove the circuit board and go over the solder joints with a magnifying glass and look for any that are cracked. Carefully resoldering cracked joints will normally repair the problem without having to replace the circuit board.But if you are not able to locate the loose soldering,then you will have to get the cluster board repaired.Yes repairing is possible and many professional repair shops deal with cluster board repairing to take care of odometer and speedometer not working issues.Buying a new cluster board will be costly issue and getting it repaired will be good option.It will save good amount of cash.There are some stores which provides some guarantee in repair jobs also.So i suggest first inspect the board yourself and try re-soldering if you locate the bad soldering.But if that's not possible then get the board repaired.


There are few possible causes that can lead to this problem.
Mostly it sets code and you should receive the error code.But if the manual procedure is not giving you error code then you need to use scan tool.Use this tool will monitor the data while the problem is happening.
It will provide some data to be followed.

But without that tool also you can manually inspect the possible parts that can cause this problem.

Now first see how your vehicle looses power.
Is the vehicle dying abruptly that tells us you are losing spark. A loss of fuel would cause a hesitation and lack of power as it dies. 

But as you mentioned that vehicle suddenly dies while driving and no other driving issue noticed.
Then this clears that fuel pump and low fuel pressure or dirty fuel filter is not the issue.

So your main attention is spark related issue.
That is what causing the problem.


Possible causes of lost spark would be the crank sensor, cam sensor, coil, ASD relay, wiring, and the powertrain control module (PCM). Most would normally set a code but not always.


Ok,i will explain easy possibly with complete detail.

In most of such cases the crank sensor is the culprit.

The crank sensor goes down into the transmission bellhousing at about the 2:00 position as viewed over the left fender.

It reads off a tone wheel on the flexplate to tell the PCM where the crank is in it's rotation, and is the main input needed for spark. 

If the crank sensor signal is lost for a fraction of a second it will cause the engine to die, but could restart immediately. The crank sensor is your most likely cause.


If crank sensor checks ok,then other possibility is  faulty cam sensor


Cam sensor is located inside the distributor.This runs off the rear bank camshaft. The cam sensor is also needed for spark and could be momentarily dropping signal.Same as Crank sensor.


Like cam sensor coil is also in the distributor. Normally with a bad coil it wouldn't give symptoms like you are having though. If either the coil or cam sensor were bad the distributor would need to be replaced.New distributor comes with coil and cam sensor included inbuilt as a kit.


The ASD relay powers the injectors and coil, if the ASD feed was lost because of a wiring problem or bad relay then it would die, but should set a code. 
But still on some cases the relay will get faulty and no code will be set.So to confirm the issue.Swap ASD relay with another working relay.And see if that helps.

FAULTY PCM( PowerTrain Control Module):

In many cases its seen that PCM turns of  momentarily and isn't storing a code because memory is lost each time. 

Set error code in  PCM and see if it erases during the event. To set error code in PCM manually.Try this simple procedure.
  • Start the engine and unplug any sensor on the engine and turn the engine light on purposely. 
  • Plug it back in and then drive the car. 
  • After it dies and you get it started again, see if there is still a fault code stored besides the 12 and 55. 
  • If there is then know that PCM is operating.
Otherwise you know PCM is faulty and it has to be replaced.

But as per your problem described i think its mostly crank sensor or issue with cam sensor.

These details will help.

1999 Ford F-150 Idles rough and quits when gas pedal is pressed less?

2000 Toyota Avalon: Speedometer/ odometer Display Resets?