As per the Model number provided,it says that this truck has 22 RE Engine model.
in this types of cases there are multiple possibilities that can cause the problem.
Faulty spark plugs,issue with ignition coil,problem with connections,loose switch or shorted wires.
Also check the Fuses to EFI.If they are shorted then replace it.
Basically on this models you will notice that coil with the ignitor piggy backed to it.
On old car models the original wiring - use 'LUCAR' type piggy-back connectors on the solenoid and coil.
Now test this with test light or voltmeter.
There should be 12 volts to either side of the coil at each post with the key in the on position.
After that test for 12 V going to the 30 amp AM2 fuse.
If you do,then
The next step is to gain access to the electrical connector that goes to the ignition switch. At the ignition switch connector the larger gauge wires which are white with red should have 12 V and when you turn the key to the on position the black wire with a red tracer should have 12 V. These two wire should be next to each other, one is pin eight and one is pin seven.
There is a capacitor that is a noise reduction device that is a single black wire with a red tracer and is usually mounted right to the inner fender next to the ignition coil does this black wire with a red tracer have 12 V to it.
------------------
IN THIS PARTICULAR CASE:----
The capacitor connector that was unplugged which was where you described it on the fender well below the coil. It has 2 black wires with red lines. The capacitor is flat about an inch square and black in color. This tested with 1.70 volts.
The other connector was under the dash that which was the ignition switch harness. I did not disconnect when I checked for power. The white/red wire tested 12 volts and the black/red on the ignition switch side of the connector tested 12 volts with the key on.
The black/red that tested 1.70 volts with key on, was on the bottom of the connector.
-----------
This indicates there is Voltage drop.
This voltage drop would indicate either corrosion in the connector or in the key switch if you put a jumper wire from the black wire with a red tracer over to the black wire with a red tracer on the other side of the connector do you get 12 V out to the coil and to that capacitor? If you do then truck should start?
It should fire up with the jumper wire connected to the ignition harness. And If you disconnect the jumper, it will die.
More then likely it is the contacts in the switch but check the pins in the connector for loose fit or corrosion.Replacing the ignition switch and cleaning its wiring connections and connectors properly will help to resolve this issue.
Thanks.
in this types of cases there are multiple possibilities that can cause the problem.
Faulty spark plugs,issue with ignition coil,problem with connections,loose switch or shorted wires.
Also check the Fuses to EFI.If they are shorted then replace it.
Basically on this models you will notice that coil with the ignitor piggy backed to it.
On old car models the original wiring - use 'LUCAR' type piggy-back connectors on the solenoid and coil.
Now test this with test light or voltmeter.
There should be 12 volts to either side of the coil at each post with the key in the on position.
After that test for 12 V going to the 30 amp AM2 fuse.
If you do,then
The next step is to gain access to the electrical connector that goes to the ignition switch. At the ignition switch connector the larger gauge wires which are white with red should have 12 V and when you turn the key to the on position the black wire with a red tracer should have 12 V. These two wire should be next to each other, one is pin eight and one is pin seven.
There is a capacitor that is a noise reduction device that is a single black wire with a red tracer and is usually mounted right to the inner fender next to the ignition coil does this black wire with a red tracer have 12 V to it.
------------------
IN THIS PARTICULAR CASE:----
The capacitor connector that was unplugged which was where you described it on the fender well below the coil. It has 2 black wires with red lines. The capacitor is flat about an inch square and black in color. This tested with 1.70 volts.
The other connector was under the dash that which was the ignition switch harness. I did not disconnect when I checked for power. The white/red wire tested 12 volts and the black/red on the ignition switch side of the connector tested 12 volts with the key on.
The black/red that tested 1.70 volts with key on, was on the bottom of the connector.
-----------
This indicates there is Voltage drop.
This voltage drop would indicate either corrosion in the connector or in the key switch if you put a jumper wire from the black wire with a red tracer over to the black wire with a red tracer on the other side of the connector do you get 12 V out to the coil and to that capacitor? If you do then truck should start?
It should fire up with the jumper wire connected to the ignition harness. And If you disconnect the jumper, it will die.
More then likely it is the contacts in the switch but check the pins in the connector for loose fit or corrosion.Replacing the ignition switch and cleaning its wiring connections and connectors properly will help to resolve this issue.
Thanks.
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I've got a 91 Toyota pick up 4x4 3.0 that has no spark replaced the coil, And ignitor, and still no spark, Can Anybody Help
ReplyDeleteI've got a 91 Toyota pick up 4x4 3.0 that has no spark replaced the coil, And ignitor, and still no spark, Can Anybody Help
ReplyDeleteI've got a 91 Toyota pick up 4x4 3.0 that has no spark replaced the coil, And ignitor, and still no spark, Can Anybody Help
ReplyDelete